{"id":5236,"date":"2019-02-11T20:28:02","date_gmt":"2019-02-12T03:28:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/susannaives.com\/wordpress\/?p=5236"},"modified":"2021-11-14T11:02:41","modified_gmt":"2021-11-14T16:02:41","slug":"a-victorian-girlfriends-guide-to-traveling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/susannaives.com\/wordpress\/2019\/02\/a-victorian-girlfriends-guide-to-traveling\/","title":{"rendered":"A Victorian Girlfriend\u2019s Guide to Traveling"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

It\u2019s been a year since I\u2019ve posted on my blog! Elizabeth Bisland, the author of \u201cThe Art of Travel\u201d found in <\/strong>The Woman\u2019s Book<\/strong><\/a>,<\/strong><\/em> might characterize me as an \u201cindolent\u201d blogger.<\/strong>  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lately,<\/strong> I\u2019ve had an itch<\/g><\/strong> to go exploring on Google Books<\/g> and find something new to freshen up ye olde blog. While looking up information on caring for invalids last night, I stumbled upon this interesting travel information by Bisland. When I returned to the book this morning, I noticed that one of the chapters had been written by Thomas Wentworth Higginson<\/a>, the famed scholar and<\/g> abolitionist as well as the dear friend and editor of Emily Dickinson! I wondered if the other authors in the book were such luminaries, so I googled Elizabeth Bisland<\/a> and, whoa, what a fascinating woman!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bisland was a writer and Nellie Bly\u2019s competitor in the famous Journey Around The World in 1889, a race to beat Jules Verne\u2019s fictional 80-day jaunt around the globe. Ultimately, Bly defeated Bisland, making the journey in 72 days, while Bisland came in at 76. Bummer. Luckily for us, Bisland imparted her traveling wisdom in her chapter in <\/strong>The Woman\u2019s Book. <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You\u00a0can\u00a0find\u00a0more\u00a0of\u00a0her\u00a0writings\u00a0and books including\u00a0In Seven\u00a0Stages:\u00a0A\u00a0Flying\u00a0Trip\u00a0Around\u00a0the\u00a0World<\/em>\u00a0at\u00a0Online\u00a0Books<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I hope you enjoy this fabulous information. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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My own opinion and experience is<\/g> that a woman can travel comfortably to any distance, into any climate, with one trunk, a dressing bag<\/g>, and a shawl strap<\/g>. Very recently a great advancement has been made in the matter of trucks and already one begins to look back on one\u2019s contentment with the bungling or boxes full of trays as a piece of quite phenomenal ignorance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This new box has a hinged top, which, being lifted, exposes a series of drawers both large and small, so that instead of struggling with refractory trays and breaking one’s back in search of some object that has, in a spirit of pure wantonness, descended into the depths at the instant when most needed, one whips<\/g> out the shallow drawers and in a twinkling can pounce upon the most elusive and wily of one’s possessions. The newest dressing-bag also is a great improvement over any previous efforts in this line; the fittings being wrought of weightless celluloid, made in an excellent imitation of tortoiseshell or amber, replacing the heavy glass and silver which made a dressing-case a burden to be avoided at any cost. Now that the objection of weight is removed, the dressing-bag, with its compact toilet appliances, is quite indispensable to comfort and travel. It should contain hair-brush and comb, clothes-brush<\/g>, nail-brush, and toothbrush, soap-case, cologne-bottle, hairpin case, scissors, button-hook, penknife, portfolio, and traveling inkstand. To these should be added one of the small morocco sewing-cases to be found at the dry goods shops, with thimble<\/g>, needles, glove and<\/g> shoe buttons, sewing-silk, thread, and tapes, as well as a few hooks and eyes. A pincushion filled with safety-pins, hatpins, and dressing-pins, black and white, added to a sponge-bag, complete the list and prepare one to meet any emergency with calmness. These dressing-cases are somewhat more costly than the ordinary bag, but they are usually of good material and therefore wear well, and the saving in time, and the comfort of knowing one’s belongings are tidy and ready to hand, is worth the extra cost ten times over. Heretofore, because of being obliged to carry all one’s own hand-luggage in this country, the dressing-case has not been popular with us ;<\/g> but this difficulty of weight removed, no wise or skilled traveler will be without so great an addition to her convenience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A medium-sized bag, convenient for\na woman’s handling, will have space as well for a night-dress, a pair of soft, heel less dressing slippers, and a light\ndressing gown\u2014China silk in summer time,\nor soft wool for winter. A gray Chudda shawl of large size can be cut into such\na dressing gown, and is so soft and\ncompressible that it occupies but little space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The shawl-strap should contain an\nulster, traveling-rug, overshoes, and\numbrella. Another matter to be considered in preparing for comfort in travel is\nthe possession of a definite place for everything, so that everything may be\nfound in its place the instant it is wanted. Therefore cases for handkerchiefs,\ngloves, and veils, bags for shoes and for soiled linen, should all be provided,\nand every article being carefully laid away in its proper receptacle after\nusing, not only insures against losses that\ncannot be repaired at critical moments, and frantic searches for strayed belongings, but keeps one’s boxes and clothes\ndainty and fresh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By natural sequence the next point to be considered is that of toilets. There\nis no need, in addressing American women, to inveigh against frowsy unkemptness\nin traveling\u2014their tendency as a rule is toward ” over-smartness\n;” but where a question of the quantity and weight of luggage is to be\ndealt with, it may be worth while to plan how an immaculate appearance and\ncomfort are to be maintained out of trunks of small compass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The many women who wear silk or wool tricot undergarments find them easily carried in small compass. Those who do not like this form of dress will discover that for long journeys there is nothing so satisfactory for underwear as silk. The original cost is rather large, but it proves an economy in the end, as clothes of the soft India (not China) silk are so easily laundered\u2014 requiring no starch \u2014 shed, instead of gathering, dust; do not conduct changes of temperature; and, keeping the body at an even temperature, are the greatest safeguards against colds. Nothing can be a greater luxury, in sickness, or after a hot day in the cars, than to slip for the night into a silky garment which neither heats nor chills the skin,<\/g> nor retains the dust and wrinkles of a previous wearing, as would cambric or linen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The ideal traveling down is\nundoubtedly a very plain tailor skirt and coat of some neutral-tinted serge or\ntweed, with a silk bodice, is it can stand the stress of weather, sea-damps,\nand railway dust, is easy of fit, and can\nbe adapted to the tropics  by removing\nthe coat, or adjusted to the Arctic zone by the addition of furs. A simple and\nsatisfactory adjunct is a black silk dress with two bodices\u2014one adopted for evening. The best form of this convenience, if\nintended for hard usage, is a bengaline\nsilk, which does not crumble, and, like Mrs. Primrose wedding gown, has stamina\nenough to carry it over into another generation. With a pi\u00e8ce de r\u00e9sistance<\/em> of this sort, a few of the prettiest accessories\nof ribbon, velvet, and lace that the shops furnish ready-made, will supply all\nthe variety of costume needed and travel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most of the traveling done\nwithin our borders is, of necessity, on the railway, and despite our\npersistence of self-glorification in  this\nvery matter, we have\u2014 in many things\u2014 much to learn from Europe. The\ncontinental wagonslits<\/em>, and the English sleeping cars are in several\nrespects improvements upon our own. For one thing\nthey avoid that promiscuously which is so greatly\nshocks the foreigner traveling in\nAmerica. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Germany one may secure a\nfirst-class carriage for one’s self at an expense no greater than that of a\nwhole section in a sleeping-car, and attached to this is a private dressing room with all conveniences. Here one\nis as secluded as in one’s own bedroom, and instead of futile wrestlings in the\ncurtained pigeon-hole provided in American cars, one dresses and undresses at one’s ease, with plenty of space and no\npossibility of intrusion. All the through-trains leaving Paris for\nConstantinople, Vienna, Berlin, Rome, and Nice are provided with wagons-lits,\n<\/em>cars which have a narrow passage-way upon one side, upon which opens a\nseries of small bedrooms, securing the privacy for many that American cars only\noffer to the one party rich enough or lucky enough to secure the single ”\nstate-room ” at the end of the sleeper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While few of the Continental trains\nhave a dining-car attached, those without one are provided with a small kitchen\nat the end of the wagon-lit, <\/em>where the guard concocts pleasant little\nmeals, largely made of fruit, salads, cheese, and good crusty loaves, and\nserves them in each room upon movable tables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The trains de luxe <\/em>between\nCalais and Paris, between London and Dover, and London and Edinburgh, have\nbeautiful dining arrangements, and the saloon carriages are spacious and\nluxurious beyond any comparison with the best we have to offer. Another point\ndeserving mention in the European trains is the studied simplicity of the\ndecorations. Smooth, handsome blue broadcloth takes the place of stuffy plush,\nand the tempest of gilded ornamentations is conspicuous by its delightful\nabsence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In making long trips in England or\non the Continent it is as well that the woman traveling\nalone should go to the expense of taking first-class tickets to secure the\nadvantages of the added luxury and privacy; but for all journeys of moderate\nlength\u2014and very few are as long as twelve hours\u2014second class is quite good\nenough and a great deal cheaper. For journeys of an hour or two many English\npeople go third class, since the carriages in this class are perfectly clean\nand fairly comfortable, and one is not likely to suffer any inconvenience from\nthe manners of one’s fellow-travelers, which are almost without exception quiet\nand decent. On the Continent a woman\nunaccompanied had better content herself with the economy of second class, as her experiences might not be\nagreeable in the third.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wherever one may be fated to spend\nany length of time in land travel it is best to follow certain rules. One\nof these is to be sure of plenty of fresh air. In our own country this is sometimes made difficult by the\nover-heating of cars, the double windows, and the lack of proper ventilation;\nwhile in Europe the loosely fitting sashes and lack of artificial warmth gives\none at times too much of even that good thing. An excellent practice is to get\nout wherever a stop of more than a few minutes is made and walk briskly,\nfilling the lungs and stirring the blood. In almost all cases where a traveler finds herself unable to sleep in the\ncars the difficulty maybe corrected by a\nsupply of fresh air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A good plan is to undress entirely, as at home, slipping over the nightgown the loose silk or wool dressing gown, that\u2019s protecting one\u2019s self against danger<\/g> of colds, and being prepared in case of accident<\/g>. Have the berth made up with the pillow at the end toward the front of the car, and no matter how cold the weather, open the window next to feet a little to the outer air \u2014a pencil or fold a newspaper will admit enough\u2014covering the body, and particularly the feet, very warmly. In this way<\/g> the air enters at the lower end of the bed only and circulates freely without making a draught. The result of all which is that one\u2019s body become quite free from compression of clothes, and the lungs fed with adequate oxygen, one wakes in the morning fresh and vigorous after heathful<\/g> sleep,<\/g> and is prepared for the new day\u2019s trials or pleasures. A woman who makes a five days\u2019 journey in a sleeping car without fatigue or discomfort thus describes her plan for her toilet. She says: \u201cOne of the causes of so much wretchedness in trouble is lack of a morning bath, and that, too, when one particularly needs it\u2014 all dusty and stuffy from railway grime! My method is this:  Before going to bed I look around the car. If there are only a few women, I lie in bed late and let them quite finish with the dressing room so that when I do get up I may have it to myself. If there are many, I could up a full hour earlier than any of them are likely to rise–even five o\u2019clock is better than an uncomfortable or hurried toilet, which sets me wrong for the whole day. I slip my skirt and coat over my dressing gown, knot a lace scarf I always carry over my unbrushed head, make a neat parcel of my other clothes, with these and my bag I seek the toilet room. Here I lock myself in, give my hair a good brushing to rid of cinders, fill the basin and add some cologne to the water, and by means of hanging everything out of the way, a towel spread on the floor, and a sponge, managed to achieve a bath from head to foot. Then I dress quietly and completely to the last pin, and am so refreshed and comforted that I am ready for anything that may happen. I can do it all in half an hour, too, but dint of having everything in my hand, and putting each thing where it belongs the moment I have finished using it so that there has to be no general packing up at the end. But I won\u2019t be hurried, and it throws me into spasms of nervous rage if impatient women come and bang on the door while I am within–which is why I either rise really are lie late, in order to combine a toilet and peace of mind.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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There are now but few parts\nof this country in which every convenience is not supplied by the public\nconveyances. Some of the remote or parts of Florida, where journeys must be\nmade by boat, drive want to good humor and philosophy as one\u2019s only resource; and to Mexico one must go provided with many of the comforts ordinarily\nsupplied in the United States. One of these comforts is a portable bath-tub, since hotels in the obscure parts do\nnot afford toilet appliances. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of late years the travel to\nAlaska has grown to such an extent that the tourist may look for perfect comfort by train and steamer, since were ever the demand for convenience is great supply\nmeets it.           <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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To take, for instance, what is\ncalled “The Square Tour” \u2014 which unfortunately is less frequently\nmade by Americans than by visiting foreigners \u2014will prove the universal comfort\nof travel in this country, and the possibility of being absent for months with\nthe limited luggage specified. Leaving New York on the Florida train the first\nof March, it is possible to see\u2014with a stop-over ticket\u2014all the towns of\nimportance along the Southern Atlantic coast within a week, and in all will be\nfound good hotels, and the climate will vary so little that the removal or\naddition of a coat will be all that is required. Florida is dotted with\nadmirable hostelries with an easy journeys\nof one another, and every point of interest \nis reached by fairly comfortable means. Here one will be obliged to add\nthe coat mornings and evenings while near the sea-coast, but will perfectly\nabandon it while in land or by the waters\nof the Gulf. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

New Orleans may be reached by rail,\nbut a charming route is across the Gulf by steamer, and up through the mouth of\nthe Mississippi. Here one takes the Southern Pacific to California, seeing\nTexas en passant, <\/em>and slowly climbs the Western coast by local lines,\nseeing the beautiful fruit ranches of the South, Los Angeles, Sacramento, San\nFrancisco, Puget Sound, and finally takes the steamer to Alaska, reaching there\nabout June 1st. Returning, a landing is made at Victoria, and thence by\nCanadian Pacific through the wildest and most beautiful railway route in the\nworld to Montreal. From there more railroading brings one to the Lakes, to\nChicago, to Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and New York by July1st. By this process there has been no exposure either to\nextreme heat or cold, nor any rough methods of travel in a journey of four\nmonths, that gives one a most comprehensive knowledge of the North American\ncontinent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The green spectre of sea-sickness looms up for most\nwomen at the very mention of \u201cthe oceans of say\u201d to be faced when they venture\noff of their own continent and the whole art of travelling by water is, for\neight out of ten, simply a question of evading or assuaging those insufferable\npangs. Long and severe experience has proved to most sufferers that the advice\nto struggle against those painful and surging emotions is but the brutal egoism\nand lack of sympathy of those who know not such sufferings because of their own\ninternal arrangements being set on an even keel, There is on earth perhaps no\nanguish so bitter, and none which meets with so little true tenderness and\ncomprehension as sea sickness. To escape without ribald mockery is more than\nmost can hope It is useless to suggest a remedy for the cure of one is the\ndoubled agony of another, and only precautions and palliations are worth\nsuggesting, since the cure for sea sickness is like salvation each must find it\nfor himself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One important precaution is to see that the system\nis clear and the liver active, at least a week before sailing. Then, if it be\npossible a voyage should not be begun in a state of nervous fatigue. Perhaps\nthe most important advice is to go to bed at once before, the \u201cjobbling of the\nocean\u201d awakes a single qualm. Arrange all one’s be longings snugly and handily. Undress completely and\nget into bed with a book near by in case of ennui and some clean faint flavored\ntoilet water ready for use. It is better not to read but to go to sleep at once\ngenerally an easy task after the fatigues of preparation and farewell. With no\ncompression of garments stretched at full length with the body warm and as much\nfresh air as is attainable it is just possible one may escape the tendency to\nnausea which once set up is so hard to conquer. For the first twenty-four hours\nall soups and hot drinks, wines, lemonades, and the like, should be avoided;\nthe diet being confined to cold, dry meats, and dry biscuits. By strict\nobservance of these rules I myself, who have descended all the seven rounds of\nthe hell of seasickness, am enabled to make a voyage with only moderate\ndiscomfort and even to enjoy life by the third or fourth day. Should the\nsorrows of the sea overtake one in spite of all precautions cracked ice and\nbromides are the most simple and effective palliatives. A cold salt bath is an\nexcellent aid to recovery when the worst of the nausea has passed and the\ninterval of excessive languor and depression supervenes. It requires courage to\nundertake it, but the result is worth the effort–the best way being to step\ninto a warm bath and sponge freely with cold water as it runs from the cock.\nThis shortens by many hours that period of reaction which is almost as painful\nas the more active illness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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These remedies or necessary only\nupon such wicked seas as are to be found in the North Atlantic and Pacific, or\nin the stormy channels surrounding England. The beautiful tropical waters about\nthe East and West Indies are–in the winter at least, when travelers for\npleasure make their acquaintance–smooth lakes without even the long heave and\npulse of our summer seas. The Peninsular and Oriental steamships, from the moment they enter the Suez Canal until they\nfinish their voyage Hong Kong, a whole month later, might carry a glass full of\nwater without even spilling a drop. Consequently, for one of the Eastern\njourneys, which are every day becoming more popular, the preparations are quite\ndissimilar from those undertaking for a trip to Europe. As there is no steerage\ntravel to the East, the whole vessel vessel is given up to the comfort of the\nfirst-cabin passengers. Decks are wide and steady enough for very agreeable\nmoonlit dances and strolls. Little afternoon tea-tables make their appearance\namong the clusters of Bombay lounging-chairs, where young women in muslins and\nstraw hats pour tea for young men in white duck, with silk sashes replacing\ntheir waistcoats. The saloons are adorned with growing palms, and occasionally\na blooming orchid plant or two hang among the canaries’ cages. The state-rooms\nare large, comfortable bed chambers, with iron bedsteads, and a long divan on\nthe seaside, where a great section of the ship opens outward, forming and\nawning from the sun but letting in all the coolness of the sea. The bathrooms\nare spacious, and the great marble tubs, filled with cold salt water, offer the\nmost irresistible temptation in the hot atmosphere.             <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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At half-past six in the morning a\nwhite-capped maid comes with tea or coffee, a biscuit and fruit. It may be\nagainst all one’s good American habits to eat at that hour and in bed, but a\nlittle further knowledge will prove here, as elsewhere, it is best to follow\nthe example of those who have had long knowledge of the needs of a climate. If\none refuses to adapt one’s self to this custom, and insists upon doing in Rome\nas the Americans do, the result will be a feeling of great exhaustion after\ndressing that robs one of appetite for breakfast and spoils the day. In the\ntropics less nourishment is needed than in temperate zones, but it must be\ntaken at much more frequent intervals; and after the heavy relaxed sleep of\nthose moist, warm nights, the body requires the stimulus of food before\nundertaking any exertion. The same advice applies to the afternoon siesta. One\nmay have had a most vigorous scorn of the indolence implied by sleep in the\ndaytime, yet between three and four o’clock an almost irresistible drowsiness\nwill overtake one, and the wise voyager succumbs to Nature’s hint of her needs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It cannot be too much urged upon\nthe traveler by land or by water, in temperate or tropic zone, that there\nshould be no chance for exercise neglected. The change of air induces, as a\nrule, a more vigorous appetite, and the enforced sluggishness of long days on\nboard vessel and car makes it difficult for the digestion to cope with its\nadded task, the result being disorders which are apt to rob one of all pleasure\nand predispose one to colds and infection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These\nsuggestions apply to the case of the woman journeying under the escort of what\nis known as her natural protector, and treat principally of her physical\ncomfort and well – being; but for the woman who sets forth into the world alone\nthere are many matters still to be considered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To\nthe indolent, the timid, and the inexperienced among women there is something\nextremely terrifying in the thought of lonely wanderings, unaccompanied by some\nman to save trouble and bear the blame of mishaps; but there is, in reality,\nnothing to prevent a woman from seeing every civilized, and even\nsemi-civilized, country in the world without other protection than her own\nmodesty and good sense. There is a vast amount of chivalry and tenderness\ndistributed in the hearts of men, and while the woman who goes guarded may be\nquite unaware of it, because nothing in her case calls it forth, the chivalry\nis there, and ready for almost unlimited draughts upon its patience, devotion,\nand sympathy. In all accidents by land or water the first thought of those in\nauthority is the safety of the women, and while all yet goes smoothly the very\ndefencelessness of a lonely woman appears to put every man upon his honor, and\nmake him feel, in a certain sense, responsible for her comfort and enjoyment.\nThat women travelling alone have at times painful experiences cannot be denied,\nbut I boldly assert that in nine cases out of ten it is due wholly and solely\nto their own fault. A few have been so warned against the wiles of a wicked\nworld that they are unable to discriminate between an honest desire to be of\nuse and mere vulgar effrontery, and reward courteous attentions with suspicious\nrudeness. A still greater number look upon their own needs and discomforts as\nmatters of cosmical importance, before which the affairs of the\nuniverse\u2014notably the affairs of the masculine half\u2014should give way; and their\npetulance, peevishness, and aggressive assumptions drive even the meekest of\ntheir fellow-travelers into open revolt. Still another cause of difficulty is\nan embarrassed timidity in cases where instant repression is needed; and a lack\nof courageous dignity in the face of insolence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The\nwoman who is cool – headed, courteous, and self-reliant, can travel around the\nworld in every direction and find no word or look to daunt or distress her.\nIndeed if her manners be sweetly gracious and dignified she will find all lands\nfull of brave cavaliers who will spring to gratify her smallest request, who\nwill see and meet her needs before they are put into words, and who cheerfully will imperil and even yield up their\nlives in her defence and to insure her safety. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

 The garment of modest purity is as magic a\ndefence to-day as when Una wore it, and the sight of a good woman who needs\ntheir aid wakens in even bad men some part of the spirit of a Bayard. The woman\nwho knows how to accept a favor frankly and without tiresome protest, and is at\nthe same time gratefully aware that the service is a favor and not a duty,\nmakes every travelling man her faithful servitor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A cool and nimble wit is\ngenerally the best defence against vulgar aggression and achieves its end more\nneatly than would angry protest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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 A very young girl was once making a long\nrailway journey alone, and to amuse her solitude dabbled a little in an attempt\nat literature.  She was aware that a man\nin the opposite section of the sleeping-car was endeavoring to attract her\nattention, but she kept her head bent over her manuscript and gave no sign of\nbeing aware of his existence. Finally, all his efforts failing, he crossed the\naisle between them and laid his visiting card on the adjustable table before\nher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThat’s my name, miss,\u201d he said,\nand added with insinuating familiarity, \u201cI guess we\u2019re two of a kind.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 The girl regarded the card distantly and\nraising her eyes to his face coolly, contemplated it during several minutes of\nsilence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 \u201dReally!\u201d she replied at last, \u201cyou flatter me.\nIn what respect may I hope to resemble you?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 \u201cOh,\u201d stammered the small cad, getting red and\nembarrassed beneath her calm gaze, \u201cyou seem to be a writer and I am one myself;\nI\u2019m a reporter. Guess we\u2019re a pair of Bohemians, ain\u2019t we?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“You\nmean that?” <\/em>she answered politely, glancing at the thirty\nor forty pages of manuscript she had covered. “I fear it has misled you.\nThat is a letter to my husband. Good morning!” And she quietly dotted an\ni, and went on with her work. The car heard her and understood, and the car\nsmiled satirically at the unmatched Bohemian, who sneaked away to the smoker\nand was seen no more by daylight in his seat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Impertinence\nis not the only matter with which the solitary woman must deal; she must be\nalert, accurate, and quick-witted, and while she is sure to find assistance she\nmust act as if she did not count upon it, and take all possible precautions for\nherself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is well to secure one’s seats,\nsleeping-berth, or state-room well in advance, and trust nothing to luck.\nBeginning early and having, therefore, the power of choice, select, if\npossible, for a day’s journey, seats in the centre of the car, or if for the\nnight, a berth near the ladies’ toilet-room. Take an outside state-room; the\nair to be had through the port-hole, whenever the sea is calm enough to admit\nof opening it, is worth much in moments of fatigue or nausea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Take enough hand – luggage to be\nquite comfortable. Someone can always be found to carry it for a very small\ntip. Do not sit down and wait to be told when things happen and where all\nconveniences are situated. A few judicious inquiries will ascertain the hours\nof meals, the locality of the bath-room, what rules and regulations must be\nobserved, and what privileges are to be had. Be ready to take prompt advantage\nof any opportunity for amusement, and be profoundly versed in the gentle science\nof Baedeker and Murray.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps this is a point at which\nthe whole question of tips might be appropriately dealt with. All through\nEurope they are expected, but a regular tariff is fixed, and it is not\nnecessary to give more than is the custom. Some few independent souls refuse to\nrecognize the demand at all, but they are always badly served. In very many\ncases those who serve them are not liberally paid by their employers because of\nthe extra fund supposed to be contributed by the traveller, and she who refuses\nto tip is in reality receiving services gratuitously from the poor employee. On\nlong sea-voyages it is customary to give one’s own stewardess five dollars when\nspecial services are asked, or two and a half dollars when no particular demands\nare made on her time. About the same is given the table steward, and one dollar\nto the deck steward\u2014 but this proportion may alter according to the amount of\nservice rendered. It is a wise precaution and insures more care and\nconsideration if the tipper gives the stewardess a small installment of the\nwhole fee during the first day out, intimating that more is to follow on\nreaching port.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In England the cabmen expect a\ngratuity of two pence, in France two big sous. Six pence are ample for the\ntransportation of luggage or any small services from the guard on railway\ntrains in England; half a franc in France. In the expensive restaurants a\nshilling in London and a franc in Paris is sufficiently munificent, while in\nsuch places as the Maison Duval, or the A. B. C. restaurants, two sous, or two\npence, are quite enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are, for the solitary woman\ntraveler, a number of tourists’ agencies \u2014such as Cook’s, Gaze’s, and Low’s,\u2014,\nwhose branches reach to over beyond Jordan, and are established among even the\ndwellers in Mesopotamia. These for a very small percentage will buy tickets,\ncheck and transfer luggage, furnish all useful and useless information, and do\none’s banking, besides supplying valuable aid in finding satisfactory lodgings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is at the offices of these\nagencies that one may change bank-notes most conveniently and secure fresh\ncurrency of the different countries in which one is sojourning. In carrying\nlarge sums it is better to rely upon the letter of credit on some prominent and\ntrustworthy bank ; but where the sum to be used in travelling is moderate, as\nconvenient a way as any is to carry a few Bank of England notes, and deposit\nthese as an account at one of the tourist agencies, or at a bank, and draw\nchecks against it. Say that one means to go abroad for two months or three, and\nmeans to limit one’s expenses to a few modest hundreds; then the simplest and\nleast troublesome fashion of arranging the matter is to procure Bank of England\nnotes for that sum. Get a letter from a trustworthy tourist agency to its\noffice in London or Paris containing an introduction. On arriving one has only\nto present the letter and the money, deposit the latter, and get a sheaf of\nchecks in return, and. a needed supply of foreign gold and silver. In moving\nfrom one large city to another, it is necessary only to carry a letter from the\nagency to its bureau in the new capital, and there, the office having been\nprivately notified of the original deposit, the checks are again honored. For\nshort tours from the base of supply a small amount of gold is the most\nconvenient form of provision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is well that the woman\ntravelling alone should always deposit her valuables in the safe of the hotel,\nbeing sure to take a receipt for them. In the daytime, and while on the cars at\nnight, a soft silk bag about the neck is the best receptacle for large sums. It\nis now so easy to change one’s money, and so many conveniences are provided for\ntravellers in this respect that it requires but little effort to obtain the\ncurrent coin of the realm where one may happen to be, and in all countries\nEnglish gold and bank-notes are honored, as they evidently stand high in the\nestimation of the whole world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is much diversity of\nopinion and experience in the matter of guides and couriers, but a good rule\nseems to be that in countries where one understands the language they are\nunnecessary, while in localities where the language is absolutely unknown, what\nis apt to miss many pleasures for lack of an interpreter. In England, France,\nGermany, Italy, and Spain, the routes are so well-known and so constantly\ntraveled, that an energetic, enterprising traveler can\u2019t see all that is to be\nseen without aid; but in Norway and Sweden, Russia, Holland, and turkey, in\nEgypt, and in Japan, where the languages are so difficult that even the few\nphrases needed by the traveler are more troublesome to acquire then the result\nis worth, a guide and an interpreter or quite necessary. In India English is so\ngenerally spoken that an American woman does not find herself at a\ndisadvantage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is the gentleman who sits\nat the receipt of custom who fills with vague alarm many a gentle female soul,\nbut experience usually robs him of all terrors. Strangely enough, England,\nwhich is supposedly free from any protective measures, is\na most troublesome port to enter. Brandy, cologne, silver plate, tobacco, and\nthe Tauchnitz novels are not permitted to enter the tight little island, and it\nis generally some well-behaved, eminently conventional matron who is most\nsharply questioned as to the presence of tobacco and brandy in her trunks, and\nhas her stockings, underlinen, and bonnets tossed madly about in the search for\ncontraband means of dissipation. On the Continent more discrimination is shown,\nand for the most part the officers of the douane <\/em>discern at a glance\nwhether one is likely to have diamonds concealed in one’s boot-heels, or owes\nthe rich contours of one’s figure to tightly rolled consignments of lace. The\nslightest reluctance to have one’s belongings searched, however, at once\narouses suspicion, and only the cheerful and prompt handing over of keys\nachieves the much-to-be-desired mere lifting and closing of the lid. My own\nexperience leads me to believe that the most courteous and kindly of customs\nofficials are those in the port of New York\u2014and that even under the McKinley\ntariff regulations; but memory preserves in the amber of gratitude one\ngentle-hearted Gaul, who, looking into the weary eyes of a lonely woman newly\narrived in Paris at eight o’clock in the evening, was moved to real compassion\nand chalked with his mystic sign four large boxes without word or question.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Here we have the lonely female well\non her journey’s way at last. She having read, marked, learned, and inwardly\ndigested the luminous wisdom, and didactic advice of the foregoing lines, has\ntravelled by land and sea in great comfort, luxury, and safety, and now\u2014\ntriumphantly vindicating the innocence of her luggage from accusations of\nbrandy and chewing tobacco\u2014stands inside the customs barrier of a foreign land.\nFor the sake of extreme probability we shall call this port Liverpool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is explained to her at the\nrailway station how a merciful English company has attached, for the\nconvenience of desperately homesick Yankees, a Pullman car to the train, and\nthat, finding themselves only recovered from mal de mer <\/em>to fall victims\nto mal du pays <\/em>\u2014passing from naupathia to nostalgia \u2014these expatriated\nAmericans welcome this token of home with tears of joy. She may have a place\nthere\u2014if she wishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No, indeed! Had she been so\nirresistibly enamoured of things at home she would have stayed there. She has come\naway for change, and means to see life entirely from a foreign point of view.\nShe will go first class in one of the little English carriages, though she knows\nthat \u201conly dukes, fools, and Americans go first class.\u201c This is a small single\nluxury she is treating herself to. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cHere’s half a crown, guard, and I\nhope I sha’t be disturbed. And please wireto Lincoln that I want a hot\nluncheon, with a wine.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cYes, mem. Thanky, mem. It shall be\nattended to.\u201d he locks the door, and the wiley woman is alone and a large clean\nblue boudoir, with perfect privacy and plenty of space. No one can enter and no\none can see the bit of toilet she sets about making. The steamer arrived early,\nand she has been Worrying about on the wind docks since breakfast. She removes\nher hat, recoifs her hair, and sponges her face with cologne. Doubling up the\narms that divide the long divan into chairs, be heaps for rugs into a semblance\nof sofa cushions by the window and reclines at length, with her book, the\nlovely English scenery, and an occasional nap to help her through the hours.\nHere is Lincoln. A man comes to the carriage-window and hands in a little\nluncheon hamper, for which he is paid another half crown. The train slides out\nof the station and the traveler leisurely prepares for her meal. The little\nhamper contains a half pint of table claret with a cork half drawn a hot\nEnglish chop with and potatoes and some green vegetables, a salad, a piece of\ncheese, bread and fruit, besides a knife, fork, glass, napkin, pepper, and\nsalt. She eats at her ease, and when done closes all the remains into the\nbasket and slips it under the seat. It is no further concern of hers. The\ncompany has its agents to attend to the matter of returned empties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“It may be soothing to one’s\nhomesickness to come to London in a Pullman,” she says to herself,\n“but it certainly is not so comfortable nor so novel.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arrived at Charing Cross she waits\nto see her trunks come out of the luggage-van. All the heavier pieces are left\nin the luggage office to be called for, and the things very necessary for the\nmoment are heaped on the roof of a hansom. She is too wise to go to one of the\ngreat caravansaries affected by the average travelling American. The huge\nhotels are costly everywhere, and she drives to Trafalgar Square to see the\ntourists\u2019 agent, bank her letter of credit, and get the address of some of the\nsmaller hotels. They can recommend some dignified hostelries of the simpler\nsort near to Piccadilly, or if she wishes to be very economical there are\npleasant small hotels on the Embankment, close to Charing Cross, where she may\nhave bed, breakfast, and bath for six shillings and make her other meals cost\nwhat she chooses. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

She decides upon the latter, since she means only to spend the\nnight there, and finds it clean, simple, and very comfortable. Once installed\nshe immediately sets off for Bond Street, to shop, to put herself in touch with\nall the delicious novelty of a foreign world, and to drink a cup of tea in one\nof the small tea-shops. To-morrow, armed with a list of advertisements cut from\nThe Times, <\/em>she sets out early to look for lodgings, and wanders South\nKensingtonwards in her search. In a tiny street opening upon a garden square\nfull of trees and flowers she comes upon the very thing she needs– a bright,\nfresh, little drawing room, hung and upholstered chintz, and equally pleasant\ndining room, a bedroom fitted with brass bedstead and every appointment for\ncomfort, and a tidy, well arranged bath. This is to be had at four pounds a\nweek, including lights and all attendance. She could have found cheaper\naccommodations if she had been content with merely sitting room and bedroom,\nbut meaning to present letters of introduction she wishes to have agreeable\nquarters in which to receive. She is careful to make an exact bargain with her\nshrewd landlady, who would add in, if she were not checked, all the endless\n\u201cextras\u201d over which the Briton so loves to potter and over which the American\ngrows so impatient.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere\u2019s the light over the hall-door, a shilling a week; and\nthe kitchen fire, half a crown; and there\u2019s six shillings for coal and three\nfor lights and ten shillings for attendance, and six pence for the use of the\ncruets, and tuppence for–\u201d \u201cI\u2019ll give you four pounds a week for everything\nincluded,\u201d interposes the lodger, having made a rapid calculation and deducted\na small amount from the total. There is a little more haggling and then the\nbargain is struck. The lodging house keeper\u2019s husband is a retired butler, who\nwill serve the lodger in the same capacity; she will cook, and her trig little\nniece act as housemaid. So the lodger finds herself mistress of a pretty little\nhouse, with butler, cook., and housemaid, all for the sum of twenty dollars a\nweek. Her meals she orders every morning, and with a little care and simple\nliving they should come to mot much more than another ten dollars. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Behold her installed and her letters presented. She is a wise\nwoman, this traveler. She realizes that people in a great capital are always\nvery much occupied and not particularly anxious to add more acquaintances to\ntheir list; that they are likely to think it a bore to have to hunt her up, and\nshe does not expect too much. A hasty card is dropped at the door, a line is\nscribbled perhaps asking her to come in to afternoon tea. The traveler goes\nmeekly, and makes herself agreeable. Will not the Englishwoman fix a day to\ncome and have tea with her? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Meantime this wise woman has, for\nwhat seems to her an infinitesimal sum, had boxes affixed to her windows\noverflowing with lovely blossoms, and has palms and ferns and blooming plants\nscattered about the apartment. All her small belongings and pretty purchases\nare gracefully disposed, and a warm welcome awaits the visitor. She is careful\nto avoid complaining of any inconveniences she may suffer, and when she cannot\nwarmly praise English things and methods has the discretion to keep silence.\nWithout intrusion or apparent intention she offers small pleasures and\ncourtesies herself, without waiting to have them come first to her. One person\nwhom she has obliged takes her to drive in the Park. Another asks her to\nluncheon; she repays each civility promptly by some equal courtesy, and before\nmany weeks are passed she is full of charming engagements and is booked for\nsome country-house visiting later \u2014 which is the reward of common-sense and\ngood-nature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In almost every part of the British\nIsles she finds this lodging-house system the best and cheapest method of\nliving, and she has discretion enough in each country to find out the most\ncharacteristic feature of the life there and adopt it, and to do in Rome as\nRomans do\u2014up to a certain point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Should the traveller in England be\ndesirous of still further economy\u2014as many are \u2014 it is extremely easy to achieve\nit. Those who have gone abroad for study, and many who merely go for\nrelaxation, must, to achieve their purpose, count rigidly every penny. For\nthese there are in London, Paris, Berlin, Rome\u2014all the great capitals\u2014furnished\nchambers for rent at sums varying from two dollars to ten dollars a week,\naccording to accommodations, and meals may be had at most reasonable rates in\nthese foreign towns if one knows where to look for them. London is full of such\naids to the light purse. The pastry-cooks’ shops are the refuge of the\neconomical; the A. B. C. (under which abbreviation the restaurants of the\nAerated Bread Company are known), the British TeaTable, the Alliance, the\nExpress, Pearce’s, Lockhart’s, all furnish food at the most moderate rates, and\nare clean and comfortable. The woman who is a frequenter of the British\nMuseum\u2014that infinite treasure-house of knowledge\u2014will also be familiar with the\nwell-known restaurant provided for the army of daily students there, and will\nknow how to feed herself comfortably at small cost while pursuing her studies.\nShe can reckon her living by pennies rather than by quarters. If she is content\nwith a European breakfast, a cup of coffee, an egg, and buttered rolls will\ncost her at any one of these places about eight pence\u2014or sixteen cents. A\nluncheon of bouillon, a meat patty, bread and butter, and jam will cost her\neight pence again, and she can dine comfortably for a shilling\u2014 her whole day’s\nnourishment not costing her more than sixty cents a day, or in round terms\nabout four dollars and a half a week. In the country towns of England, such as\nOxford, Leamington, and the like, one can find, with a little effort, good\nclean lodgings with board for a little over two pounds a week. These things are\nnot attainable by the mere bird of passage. The rolling stone not only does not\ngather moss, but loses it in its swift career; but in small European countries\nit is far wiser to study the map and pick out a town lying centrally to many\nplaces of interest, take up one’s lodging there, and circle about in pursuit of\nsightseeing. It is far cheaper and more comfortable, more satisfactory in every\nway; though not until it has been tried, does the American realize how close\nall the visitable places lie together in those small kingdoms. In this way,\ntoo, an interesting district can be fully studied, and no guide-book can ever\nreveal all the points of real attraction as will personal investigation. Take\nOxford as an example. Within an hour of that town there are\u2014outside of its own\ninexhaustible attractions\u2014a sufficient number of artistic and historic\npilgrimages to occupy many weeks of steady sight-seeing. No more perfect\nillustration of the point I wish to make can be found than in a conversation\noverheard in an Oxford hotel. “Why, girls!” said an American traveler\nlooking up from her guide-book, “just listen at this book !\u2014it says you\ncouldn’t see all there is to see in this town if you was to stay a month\u2014well,\nI guess there ain’t no use of our staying, then. We’ll take that 2.40 train to\nWarwick\u2014” and she did.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In England an American woman is\npermitted a thousand liberties that are denied to the natives. “That’s\nAmerican, you know,” covers a multitude of infringements of the code, and\nalmost the same feeling exists in France and Germany. They are not very clear\nas to just what is “American, you know,” and what is not, but they\nare convinced that it allows the transatlantic visitor a vast deal of liberty,\nand they rather resent than not too much conventionality and propriety of\ndemeanor. One kindly hostess offered cigars to an American woman lunching with\nher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Oh, but do take one !”\nshe cried. “Of course we are all very liberal about such things, and\nthough we don’t smoke ourselves we know you are from the South, and that all\nSouth American ladies do. We should really enjoy seeing you smoke it “\u2014and\nwas rather hurt than otherwise at her guest’s continued refusal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another hostess took an American\nwoman aside just before dinner and said, apologetically: “There is claret,\nand sherry, and champagne for dinner. I hope you like some one of them; I asked\nthe butler, but he said he didn’t in the least know how to make a ‘mixed drink.'”\nAnd to this day she does not quite understand why the guest was so convulsed\nwith amusement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now imagine the traveler\ntransferred to the Continent. She has struck her lodging-tent in London, and\nhas set up her gods in a hotel in Paris. For France is not familiar with the\nlodgings system of accommodation. The pension <\/em>flourishes in its stead,\nalmost as rankly as does its prototype, the boarding-house in America. But,\nexcept in the need of extreme economy, it is not to be sought after, for it is\nusually filled with Britons and Americans, and one gets none of the flavor of\nthe French life, which one is there to see; and the French folk who inhabit\npensions are, as a rule, not the sort one wishes to meet, and are rather to be\navoided. There are hundreds of pleasant, gay, clean apartment hotels where\naccommodation can be had most reasonably. The traveller picks out a quiet\ndwelling-place near the Rue Rivoli, and but a stone’s throw from the Place\nVendome and the Avenue de l’Opera. Here she climbs quite up to the top, but\nsince there is an ascenseur, <\/em>what matter of that. She gets a tiny\nbedroom and sitting-room which looks into a court, where there is a fountain\nand flowers, and an elderly parrot, once the property of an opera singer, who\npractises his piercing and raucous scales every forenoon with a fidelity\nlearned from his lately deceased master, and spends the rest of the time\nadministering profane, spiteful rebukes to a noisy small dog, his companion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Still faithful to the fashions of\nthe country she may happen to inhabit for the moment, the traveler has brought\nto her bedside, at eight o’clock, a pot of steaming tea or coffee, a plate of\ncrusty rolls, and a pat of butter. After caf\u00e9 complet <\/em>she rises, has her\nbath (a source of unending surprise to the French servants, who cannot\nunderstand the meaning of daily ablutions, and attribute it to a sort of\nAmerican madness), and lingers reading and writing until twelve, when she goes\nto breakfast. If it be early spring, with some east still in the wind, the\ntraveler will doubtless seek the nearest Maison Duval, <\/em>of which there\nare fully a score distributed about the city. These restaurants are perfectly\nclean, well served, and cheap, and they are one of the institutions of the\ncity. Unlucky is the economical visitor to Paris who misses them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

. . . A little marble table; a neat\nwoman in a black gown and crisp linen Normandy cap. She spreads a napkin,\nbrings a little basket full of rolls, and a pat of butter. Here is the list to\nchoose from: All sorts of omelettes and cheap dishes, perhaps the most\nexpensive is Chateaubriand, <\/em>a tiny filet of beefsteak, which costs a\nwhole franc, and is very good. This traveller is economical and chooses an omelette\nau jambon, <\/em>full of chopped ham, and served deliciously hot. Next comes a\ncream cheese, cool and sweet, and served with a spoonful of jellied white\ncurrants. A cup of caf\u00e9 noir, <\/em>and now the bill. Omelette, ten cents;\ncream cheese, ten cents; napkin, two cents; bread, two cents; butter, two\ncents; two cents for the ” cover,” and a tip of two cents \u2014two big\nsous\u2014is all that is expected by the smiling friendly woman in the Normandy\nbonnet. Thirty cents for a breakfast well-cooked, pleasantly served, and eaten\nat one’s leisure near a window looking out on all the inimitable, inexhaustible\ncharm of a Parisian street!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After breakfast is over behold this\nwell content female pacing placidly toward the Tuileries garden, to sit in the\nsun and watch the fountains play, and the funny French school-children in black\nbaize aprons disport themselves among the statues\u2014to read her newspaper or\nbook; perhaps to scribble a letter upon a writing pad on her knee. All the\ntreasures of the Louvre are at her left hand, all the charms of the Bois <\/em>at\nher right, to vie in offering pleasures for her afternoon!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is plain to see what a sensible\nwoman this is\u2014so she lingers till all the horse – chestnuts in the Champs-\u00c9lys\u00e9es\n<\/em>are in bloom, like glorified Christmas-trees full of pink and white candles\n\u2014 till the grass is green, the flowers out, and all the French world comes,\nafter its pleasant fashion, out-of-doors for its meals and amusements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ignoring the Maisons Duval <\/em>now,\nshe goes to a Champs-\u00c9lys\u00e9es <\/em>cafe and sits on the gravel path under an\nawning, and eats. The green grass and blossoming trees are about her; so are\nthe scarlet geraniums and pinks. A big fountain splashes near by. Here she ends\nher meal with a bowl of wild strawberries over which is emptied a pot of Norman\nclotted cream\u2014and all this in the very heart of a great city, too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here as in London she inquires as\nto possible excursions, and finds she can go every day for a month to some new\nplace of interest and be back by night. If she is tired with an afternoon’s\nhard work in the picture galleries or museums, she goes to Columbin’s, in the\nRue Cambon, and has tea, and is amused to see the smart French folk come in to\ndo the same thing, and to meet unexpected American friends. She dines in her\nown sitting-room at her hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Twice a week she goes to the March\u00e9\naux Fleurs, <\/em>on the steps of the church of the Madeleine, and strolls along a lane of flowers. Here are valley-lilies, forget-me-nots, and\ncornflowers which she has bought at home at great expense from the florist,\ngathered by children from the fields and sold in big bunches for a few cents.\nHere are plants of every description in pots, a tall rose covered with\nunfolding buds for one franc fifty centimes; a blooming hydrangea for two\nfrancs. She plunges into furious extravagance and goes all the length of a\ndollar, and for the rest of the week her little sitting-room is a bower of\nperfume. . . .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the end of the week she sits down to reckon up\nher spendings. Her rooms, lights, attendance, baths, dinners, and morning\ncoffee and rolls have cost her ninety francs\u2014that is to say eighteen dollars.\nThen she has spent one dollar upon flowers; her dejeuners <\/em>(breakfasts)\nhave cost on an average two francs a day\u2014two dollars and eighty cents for the\nweek. Total twenty-three dollars and eighty cents. Her list of pleasures and\nself-indulgences may be as light or heavy as she chooses to make them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Should more space be needed, or should she desire\nto entertain, the traveler will find a wide choice of appartements meubl\u00e9s <\/em>(furnished\napartments). These “flats,” as we should term them, are often\ndeliciously pretty and convenient\u2014the homes of Parisians who wish for some\nreason to sublet for a time. These can be had in good neighborhoods most\ncheaply\u2014 that is to say, for prices ranging from forty dollars to one hundred\ndollars. One servant in a small family will be quite sufficient, provided the\noccupant of the flat will conform herself to French ways\u2014take her quickly\nprepared tray of coffee before rising, and make rather a practice of lunching\nat the restaurants. This French servant will be quite content with ostensible\nwages of twelve dollars a month\u2014ostensible, because she recoups herself after\nanother fashion. Many Americans come home and rail violently at the dishonesty\nand knavishness of the French servant, but after all the matter is financially\nas broad as it is long. Here one would have to pay a neat clever creature who\ncould get one up delightful little dinners, brush one’s frocks, mend, clean,\nact as lady’s maid, and housemaid, and butler \u2014 all with equal competence \u2014\nthree times the wages the Parisian asks, and would look upon her as a rare\nblessing sent straight from heaven. She would probably be quite honest, and\nwould not exact tradesmen’s commissions, but neither would she rise at\ndaylight, tramp half a mile, perhaps, to market, and carry her heavy basket of\npurchases up half a dozen flights on her return. It is the custom of French\nservants to ask small wages for a great deal of cheerful, competent service,\nand then make up part of the difference by a little juggling with the market\nbooks. Then why not accept the French way when one is in France? It certainly\navoids much friction and wear and tear. The experienced traveler will, however,\nby a little experiment in the markets herself, get a general idea of the prices\nof things, and thereby be enabled to check any attempt at really gross\novercharging. The French woman will respect her the more, for she dearly loves\na bargain, and admires the shrewd bargainer \u2014 when she is not pushed too close.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In travel through France this same system of\nbargaining is always to be observed. The whole country is dotted with little\ninns of excellent quality, where one had best put up during mere transient\nexcursions of a few days or a week; but it is a wise precaution to ascertain\nall about prices at once, and have a clear\nunderstanding what they are to be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Very much the same advice given as\nto France, serves in Italy and Spain\u2014 only that in the last two mentioned\ncountries they are even sharper bargainers, and must be dealt with firmly.\nThere are pensions, <\/em>but the same rule holds good here as in France. A\nsitting-room, bed-room, and dressing room cost, roundly, about a hundred francs\na month. Service and meals, lights and fires, are all extra, and are more or\nless according to one’s needs. The trattoria <\/em>system is in vogue in\nVenice and Rome, and one Italian servant\u2014of which there are many good ones\u2014is\nquite sufficient here, for as a rule she serves only as house-maid, and makes\nthe morning coffee; it being so widely the fashion to lunch and dine at the\nrestaurants. Another way is to take part of an Italian house, which is even\ncheaper than an apartment\u2014since there are so many people of good birth and\neducation living upon extremely narrow means in Italy, and with more space in\ntheir homes than they need. They furnish all service except the furnishing of\nmeals\u2014which they would be quite willing to add if the American lodger. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Rome, Madrid, and in Paris, of\ncourse, there are excellent dressmakers to be had at most reasonable rates.\nThey will come to one’s house and do all the fitting at such hours as are most\nconvenient, and in Paris some of them will dress their tiny mannikins in models\nof such gowns as may be desired, to give the purchaser a chance to see how the\ncombination of colors and materials she has chosen will look when finished. In\nall the Latin countries the shop-keepers are such keen traders that it is\nconsidered no trouble to bring goods of any sort to one’s house to choose from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In London the dressmakers\u2014with the\nexception of a few famous and expensive couturieres<\/em>\u2014are generally\nincompetent and unsatisfactory. Their prices are high, they will not use the\ncustomer’s own goods, and their cut and finish are quite “impossible.”\n<\/em>Here the better way to shop is in the great haberdasheries, where excellent\nreadymade and partly-made things are to be found at most reasonable rates. Very\nmany Americans borrow an English friend’s ticket to the enormous Army and Navy\nStores, and make there admirable bargains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

London is the best place to shop\nfor old silver-ware, and for Sheffield plate, which make such beautiful\nsouvenirs of travel. Paris is the place for old lace, the dainty and\ninexpensive jewelry of the moment’s fashion, and all toilet articles; but this\nis a subject too profound and expansive to be lightly touched in a single\npaper. All travelers will soon discover for themselves the characteristic\nsouvenir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A similar story is true of every\ncountry, and every capital thereof. A little ingenuity and patience, a little\nstudy and forethought, achieve for the traveler all delights, and smooth all\nher paths. In Berlin she lives in a pension, <\/em>for that is the best mode\nof life there. In St. Petersburg she takes a furnished apartment. In India or\nJapan she rents a whole house, furnishes it, and hires a corps of servants. If\nonly passing through on a flying trip, she goes to the hotels and finds life\nfairly comfortable in all of them. But wherever she goes she carries her\ntalisman; she frankly and pleasantly accepts the ways of the country she is in\nand adapts herself to them, and is amiable, grateful for courtesies,\nself-reliant, and thoughtful in making plans for the future, as well as quick\nto grasp the demands of any situation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All directions and suggestions to travelers must of necessity be vague and general; each voyage, like each life, is individual and unique; but common sense and cheerful good temper are the two safest guides and most agreeable traveling companions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s been a year since I\u2019ve posted on my blog! Elizabeth Bisland, the author of \u201cThe Art of Travel\u201d found in The Woman\u2019s Book, might characterize me as an \u201cindolent\u201d blogger.   Lately, I\u2019ve had an itch to go exploring on Google Books and find something new to freshen up ye olde blog. While looking … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “A Victorian Girlfriend\u2019s Guide to Traveling”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6317,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[264],"tags":[322],"class_list":["post-5236","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-historic-transportation","tag-victorian-travel"],"yoast_head":"\nA Victorian Girlfriend\u2019s Guide to Traveling - Susanna Ives\u2019 Floating World<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/susannaives.com\/wordpress\/2019\/02\/a-victorian-girlfriends-guide-to-traveling\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Victorian Girlfriend\u2019s Guide to Traveling - Susanna Ives\u2019 Floating World\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"It\u2019s been a year since I\u2019ve posted on my blog! 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