I have so many ideas for the blog and just as many other interests, so I don’t post as often as I’d like. (Sigh.) But a few weeks ago, I followed a link from the main page of HathiTrust to their African American Cookbook Collection. The oldest book in the collection is A Domestic Cook Book by Malinda Russell, published in 1866. But it was the second-oldest entry that caught my eye: The Warm Springs Receipt-Book, compiled between 1881 and 1894 by E.T. Glover and published in 1897.
Wow. Glover was a remarkable cook. I wavered between sharing the section on catsups or beverages, but in the end, I had to go with the drinks. These are recipes I’d happily order from a fine bar or try making at home. At first, I considered skipping the section on coffee and tea, but then I saw Glover’s addition of egg white and crushed eggshell to the coffee. Wait, what!? I was intrigued. And then came the “Tea à la Russe” — green tea, powdered sugar, lemon, and rum. Yes, please.
I didn’t want to use stiff studio images to accompany this post, so I jumped forward a few decades and chose photographs from the brilliant William P. Gottlieb Collection at the Library of Congress. Gottlieb, who wrote a jazz column for The Washington Post, wasn’t assigned a photographer, so he took his own photos. Lucky for us. He later placed them in the public domain, and they are simply stunning. Many of the musicians I selected are iconic; others were included because I loved the photographs.
Enjoy!

Preface To Warm Springs Receipt – Book
The compilation of this book was suggested by a host of friends to whom I have catered for several years at the Warm Sulphur Springs , Virginia . I can endorse every receipt offered , having used them for years , frequently changing them when not practical or sufficiently clear in directions .
This work has given me occupation during many hours when confined to my ” wheeled chair ” through the weary winter months of enforced idleness . The many patrons of the Warm Springs will recognize the various dishes which have been offered to them in years past , and will , I trust , feel an interest in the success of the Warm Springs Receipt – Book .
Warm Sulphur Springs, Bath county, Va .
E. T. Glover

Apple Toddy
Westmoreland Club Receipt For Six Gallons
3 pints apple brandy
1/2 pint peach brandy
4 lemons ( peeled and sliced thin )
4 pounds granulated sugar
6 pints French brandy
1/2 pint curacao
1 quart bottle champagne
2 gallons water
48 apples ( roasted and quartered ) .
Champagne Cup
1 quart champagne
2 wineglassful sherry
1 slice cucumber
1 orange ( sliced )
1 quart apollinaris
1 wineglassful curacao
1 slice pineapple
1 lemon ( sliced )
Put a large piece of ice in the punch bowl , and pour the other ingredients over it . Serve very cold .

Claret Cup
1 bottle claret ( 1 quart )
1 bottle soda water ( 1 quart )
2 slices cucumber
the juice and rind 1 lemon
1 cupful sherry wine
1/2 pound granulated sugar.
Grate the lemon and add the rind and sugar together; put a few spoonsful of water with it. Add the liquors, and when the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, strain on a large piece of ice, and add the slices of cucumber.

Cider Cup
1 quart cider
2 ponies brandy
the thin yellow rind two lemons and the juice of one
2 wineglasses sherry
1 wineglass curacao
2 oranges (sliced)
2 slices cucumber
grated nutmeg
sugar to taste
Moselle Cup
(The Century Cook Book)
1 quart brawnberger or zeltinger
juice 1 lemon
1 pint apollinaris,
1 pony brandy,
juice 1 orange,
1 slip of barage or a slice of cucumber.
no sugar

Eggnog-No. 1. *Susanna’s note: raw egg!
Take to each egg—
1 tablespoonful pulverized sugar
1 wineglass brandy
1 wineglass very thick cream
Separate the eggs, beat the yolks and sugar together well; beat the whites to a stiff, dry froth. Mix together, and stir gently, then stir in the brandy and cream, and serve immediately.
Eggnog-No. 2. *Susanna’s note: raw egg!
(Westmoreland Club Receipt)
Thirty eggs; separate and beat the yolks well with thirty tablespoonsful of powdered sugar; beat the whites to a stiff, dry froth; stir half of the whites into the yolks and sugar, then stir in thirty wineglasses of brandy, one gill Jamaica rum, and fifteen wineglasses cream; put the remainder of the well-beaten whites on top.
Lemonade
To make a quart of lemonade, use eight lemons and eight large tablespoonsful of granulated sugar. Roll the lemons until soft. Take almost a quart of water, add the sugar to it, put into a pitcher, cut six of the lemons in half and squeeze the lemons with a lemon-squeezer into the pitcher; taste, and if not sweet enough, add more sugar.
Cut the remaining two lemons in slices in the pitcher, let it stand for half an hour in the ice-box, and before it is served put in some large pieces of ice.

Apollinaris Lemonade
Take a lemon to each glass; squeeze the juice, after you have left one slice. Fill the glasses almost full with crushed ice, add a teaspoonful of granulated or powdered sugar and the juice of the lemon, and fill with the apollinaris. Put the slice of lemon on top, or a few strawberries can be used instead of the slice of lemon.
Mint Julep
2 wineglasses water
2 wineglasses of brandy
1 lump sugar
a few sprigs mint
Bruise the mint a little in the water while you are dissolving the sugar. When you have extracted enough of the flavor of the mint to be just perceptible, then remove the mint and add to the water two wineglasses of the best brandy and a slice of lemon. Put a shaker over the tumbler and mix well; then half-fill another glass with crushed ice and pour the julep in; have three sprigs of fresh mint; stick them in the glass, allowing them to be just above the top of the glass. Let a straw or two be served with each glass.

Champagne Punch
Make a very rich lemonade. To each quart of the lemonade add one quart of champagne, half a pint of marischino cherries, half a pint of sliced pineapple, and half a pint of orange, peeled and cut into small bits. Put the oranges, cherries, and pineapple in the punch-bowl with a large piece of ice, and pour the champagne and lemonade in.
Rum Punch
1 pint hot water poured on the peel of two lemons
1 pint lemon juice
1 pint brandy or whiskey
1 pint rum
1 heavy pound sugar
Serve with crushed ice in glasses. A pint bottle of champagne added just before it is served makes a delicious champagne punch.

Champagne Punch
1 pint strong green tea
1 wineglass curacoa
1 teaspoonful Angastura bitters
the juice and rind 2 oranges
1 quart champagne
1 wineglass Jamaica rum
the juice and rind 1 lemon
1/2 cupful sugar
Peel the lemon and oranges very thin; steep in the bitters and rum for some hours, then add the other ingredients, and just before serving, pour in the champagne. Serve in a punch bowl with a large block of ice.

Cream Punch
Take a glass of cream, sweeten to your taste; stir in carefully a wineglass of the best brandy. Grate a little nutmeg on each glass, and serve icy cold.
Hot Rum Punch
1 quart rum
1 quart strong green tea
10 ounces sugar
6 oranges
6 lemons
a wineglassful of curacoa
Dissolve the sugar in the rum over the fire; have the tea freshly made and hot; squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons and oranges. Stir these ingredients together till well mixed, and serve hot.

Pineapple Punch
To two quarts of hot water take one and one-fourth pounds of granulated sugar, put into a saucepan, and let it come to a boil over a quick fire. When it comes to a boil, carefully skim; peel and grate a large, nice pineapple; take a generous tablespoonful of lemon juice and add to the pine-apple, then cut into small pieces two oranges that have been peeled. The syrup should be taken from the fire as soon as it boils. Strain through a cheese cloth into a punch bowl packed in crushed ice; allow it to cool, then add the pine-apple, lemon juice, and oranges; allow it to stand for several hours, renewing the ice when necessary. When time to serve, add a glass of marischino and cut into it a few marischino cherries, and if you like, add just a little sherry wine. Place in the punch a large block of ice, and serve at once.
Regent’s Punch
Take half-pint of strong, cold Oolong tea, put into the tea the thin yellow rind from three lemons; stir in a pound of granulated sugar; stir until thoroughly dissolved. Now add-
4 wineglasses French brandy
3 wineglasses rum
1 quart champagne
the juice of 3 lemons and 3 oranges
Sherry Cobbler
Put into a tumbler a claret glass of water and one or two lumps of cut-loaf sugar; when it has dissolved, add a claret glass of sherry; put a shaker over the glass and mix well. Fill another glass half full of crushed ice, pour the cobbler on it, with a slice of lemon on top or a strawberry or piece of pineapple, as desired; add straws and serve.

Blackberry Cordial
1/2 bushel blackberries
2 ounces cloves
2 ounces ground cinnamon
1 nutmeg (grated)
Mash the berries well, add the spices, mix, and boil slowly for thirty or forty minutes. Strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. To each pint of juice add half a pound of loaf sugar and half a pint of best brandy.
Huckleberry cordial can be made in the same way.
Blackberry Wine
Fourteen quarts of blackberries; bruise or mash them well, add to them fourteen pints of water, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Take fourteen pounds of granulated sugar and the whites of four eggs (well beaten); let it come just to a boil, then skim well; let this stand until almost cold, then mix with the juice of the berries. Put it in jugs and let it stand eight days to ferment. Keep out some of the juice to fill up the jugs, as it runs off whilst fermenting. Then strain it, put in bottles, and cork tightly for three months, after which time it will be ready for use. Add two quarts of best whiskey or brandy to this quantity. This makes five gallons.
Cherry Shrub
To four pounds of fruit put half a pint of white wine vinegar and let it stand a day or two; then strain through a muslin cloth and put one and a quarter pounds of sugar to one pint of the juice. Boil in a porcelain-lined kettle ten or fifteen minutes; when cold, bottle and cork tight. Two or three tablespoonsful in a glass of ice-water makes a delightful drink for summer.
Currant Wine
1 gallon currant juice
3 gallons water
3 pounds cut-loaf sugar to each gallon
Add a little powdered alum, let it stand for several months, and then bottle

Golden Cordial
One gallon of brandy; add the thin yellow rind of six lemons and expose to the heat of the sun for ten days, shaking it well every day. At the end of ten days strain the brandy and rinds, add two pounds of cut-loaf sugar, one ounce of almonds, one ounce of cinnamon, and twenty-five cloves. Let these steep in the brandy until the flavor is extracted, then strain again and bottle.
Boiled Coffee
Have the tea-kettle well washed and filled with clear, cold water, and the coffee must be made when the water comes to the first boil. Use an ordinary coffee-pot, allowing a heaping tablespoonful of ground coffee for each cup. Wash and wipe an egg, taking the white only; crush up the shell and put with the white, add a very little cold water, and beat with just a few strokes; then pour on the ground coffee, which is already in the coffee-pot; mix the coffee and egg together, then put in as many cups of boiling water as you have spoonsful of coffee; set it where it will boil quickly, and boil for one minute, then hastily pour in a half-cup of cold water, and immediately pour off one or two cupsful of coffee; put the coffee back in the coffee pot, and be careful to set the coffee-pot on the range where it will keep hot, but not boil, for a few minutes; then serve very hot.

Dripped, Or French Coffee
For this a “biggin” is necessary, and the coffee must be ground fine. Put a tablespoonful of coffee in the pot for each cup; then, when the water first begins to boil, pour on one cup of boiling water for each spoonful of coffee; when it drips through, if it is not as strong as you wish you can pour it through again. Serve immediately, and serve very hot.

Café Au Lait
Take equal quantities of boiled or dripped coffee either, and cream or very rich milk; heat the cream or milk, and when it is scalding hot pour in the coffee and boil just a minute. Serve at once.
Chocolate
Put one quart of milk in a double boiler, grate two ounces of Baker’s chocolate and rub to a very smooth paste with very hot water; when the milk becomes very hot stir in the chocolate; add three tablespoonsful of sugar; beat with an egg-beater if you have no muller all the time, and beat vigorously until the chocolate is well done and thick. But chocolate, like coffee, should be served as soon as done. Put a tablespoonful of whipped cream on each cup.

Broma
Take two heaping tablespoonsful of broma and mix to smooth paste with a cupful of boiling water. Put a cupful of milk on to boil in a double boiler, and when scalding hot stir in, and continue to stir the broma and hot water until it boils; then serve.
Cocoa
Take four tablespoonsful of cocoa and mix to a smooth paste with a cupful of hot water; have a pint of milk in a farina boiler and boil for at least ten minutes; stir constantly.
Tea
While tea is made with boiling water, tea itself must not be boiled. Scald the tea-pot well with boiling water, allowing the hot water to stand in it for a few minutes until the tea-pot is thoroughly heated. A good rule is to allow a teaspoonful of tea for each cup and a teaspoonful for the pot. Put the tea into the pot, pour over it as much water as you wish cupsful, cover the tea pot, and stand on the back of the range for five minutes, and serve.

Tea A La Russe
Use strong green tea; partly fill each glass with crushed ice and put in a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; then lay a slice of lemon on the ice in each glass; fill with the tea, and add a teaspoonful of rum to each glass. This can be served hot by having the tea hot. Put the sugar and a slice of lemon in each cup, pour the warm tea in the cup, and add a half-teaspoonful of rum to each cup.
Orange Tea
(Table Talk)
The proportions for this are the pulp and peel of one orange sliced into a number of pieces, or rings covered with fragrant hot tea. The amount of tea used has to be regulated by the juiciness of the orange. An experience in tasting is the only way to determine the proper strength. It is most delicious and refreshing. Sweeten to taste.

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