Does This Pouf Make My Hair Look Big?

Marie Antoinette

I mentioned in a previous blog post that my life has recently changed, and I’m no longer running around in the frantic, urban commuting rat race anymore. With this newfound abundance of time and lack of road rage, I’ve been writing fiction (it’s true, I’ve been known to write romantic fiction) and doing more cooking and mixology. While I’m in the kitchen, I like to have a podcast or documentary playing in the background. Learning new stuff while enjoying food and cocktails – yep, that’s me. Lately, I’ve been listening/watching stuff on Marie Antoinette. I’m not sure why.

I could write of the French Revolution or life at Versaille for this post, but there are books and Great Courses on those subjects by people who know what they’re talking about. No, I wanna look at the cray-cray hair. I gotta be honest, the whole 18th-century wig thing turns me off on a writerly level. I have enough trouble figuring out how to dress characters in the Victorian era, forget tossing in elaborate wigs and updos. That said, the idea of going around with hair art is intriguing.

Images from Galerie Des Modes Et Costumes Français – Dessinés D’après Nature, published in 1778-1785 .

Marie Antoinette, early fashion star and trendsetter, wore her hair for a time in a “pouf”, which is essentially like making a massive platform of your hair (and lots of fake hair) from wireframes and pillows. You would have powdered this pedestal of hair to turn it fashionably white.  According to one documentary, Marie Antoinette used flour to powder her hair, which is what you do when your country is suffering a wheat shortage and powerful men tend to use you as a scapegoat. Then you would adorn your pouf with your favorite stuff, such as gardens, fruits, miniature animals, celestial bodies, or a model of Paris. I would have had fruity cocktails, chocolate bars, and a bunch of Krispy Kreme donuts on the top of my pouf. However, you could also make political or military statements with your pouf. The pouf was super creative and versatile that way. Marie Antoinette once wore a miniature boat on her pouf to commemorate a victory.

You may wonder how you might have gotten in your carriage or walked through doorways with your towering, pimped-out pouf. To be sure, that was a serious drawback of the pouf. Thank goodness for a resourceful hairdresser named Beaulard.  According to The Woman of the Eighteenth Century: Her Life, from Birth to Death, Her Love and Her Philosophy in the Worlds of Salon, Shop, and Street, by Edmond & Jules de Goncourt, Beaulard created a mechanical device that could raise or lower a woman’s hair by one to two feet with the press of a button!

Images from Gallerie Des Modes et Costumes Français, published in 1778-1785 . View the volume for more glorious fashion illustrations!

If you want to learn more, check out the Stuff You Missed In History Class podcast on Marie Antoinette’s hairdresser, Léonard Autié.

Léonard Autié: Hair, Grandeur and Revolution, Pt. 1

Léonard Autié: Hair, Grandeur and Revolution, Pt. 2

Making It On The Victorian Stage – Do You Have What It Takes? And The Right Clothes?

Dear Reader,

I’m very sorry. I didn’t mean to abandon you, but life was kinda kicking my backside these last months. I am continuing my posts on Victorian theatre. If you recall in the first post, we learned about the various type of productions, the different theatres, rules concerning the theatres, and the agents. Now let’s look at some of the accomplishments recommended in Leman Thomas Rede’s book The Road To The Stage, Or, The Performer’s Preceptor for an actress or actor entering the profession.

Dance

Many of those who will honour me by perusing these pages, may remember an actor, in the character of Corinthian Tom, dancing in the Almack scene; although the gentleman’s  performance  of that character was very excellent, yet, from not having cultivated an acquaintance with Terpsichore, he in this one scene destroyed all our prepossessions of the all-accomplished Tom; whereas Connor, if he did not, by his admirable Hibernian jig, completely make the character of Dr. O’Tool, at least considerably heightened the effect of it.

Elliston was the only Doricourt upon the stage who danced the Minuet de la Gour, and this he made a great feature of his performance; while Egerton, though he opened in the Duke Aranza, at the Hay­market, did not dance at all, thus marring the whole effect of the scene, as the duke pointedly insists on Juliana dancing, and declares his intention of joining the merry circle himself.

Opera

There is one theatre in London for which no actor will be engaged unless he has some knowledge of music, viz.-the Theatre Royal, English Opera House. Although the season is a short one, yet this theatre, under the able management of Mr. Arnold, has been the stepping-stone to some of our leading actors. Harley, Wilkinson, and J. Russell, all made their first metropolitan bows in one season here; poor Chatterley also appeared the same year. Miss Love’s first introduction to the stage was on these boards; here it was that Miss Kelly developed her splendid endowments; and it has been the arena where Mathews has displayed all his versatility.

There is no line of the drama in which it may not be requisite to sing. Iago, Falkland, Edgar, (” King Lear,”) and include all vocalize, and it cannot be very agreeable to the feelings of any tragedian, after being highly applauded for his exertions in the course of the character, to be laughed at for his attempt to sing. In light comedy, it is continually requisite to execute music, and sometimes of no very easy character, as Baron Willinghurst, Captain Beldare, and Delaval (as originally written), Sparkish, The Singles, &c. &c. Old Men and Low Comedians must sing.

In melodrama, and serious pantomime, a slight knowledge of music is indispensable, where a certain number of things are to be done upon the stage during the execution of so many bars of music; the cues too for entrances and exits are frequently only cue changes of the air, and unless the ear is cultivated (if naturally bad) the performer will  be led into error. At the time I was myself in the habit of perpetrating divers melodramatic characters in the provinces, I was obliged to get my brother to attend me behind the scenes to tell me when my music was on.

Fencing

Fencing on the stage is more cultivated for effect than anything else, and a very slender knowledge of the art is sufficient; grace goes further than skill; a few lessons, if the pupil is not uncommonly dull, will be sufficient; it is not essential to rival Kean, or the late Bengough, in the use of the sword, but utter ignorance of the art is destructive to anyone, Edwards’ failure in Richard, at Covent Garden, was decided by his wretched combat–I need  not  add how Kean’s success was enhanced by his excellent one.

French

A knowledge of this language is a component part of that education every actor should have received; to a light comedian, and the performer of eccentrics, it is indispensable. Crackley, in “Green Man,” and a multitude of other parts, cannot be personated by a man ignorant of the Gallic tongue.

The 1872 Americanized edition of Rede’s book also includes the plays that all actors and actresses should know.

There is a vast amount of study required before the novice applies to a manager to become one of his company He must possess a thorough knowledge of the old standard dramas, for their characters are the standpoint from which all others are determined. The manager, for instance, in describing different parts uses the following phrases:

It is a kind of Bob Acres part, or that it is somewhat similar to Martin Haywood, or that still another part resembles Mrs. Haller; consequently you must judge what these characters are like and as Bob Acres is from “Rivals,” Martin Heywood from the “Rent Day” and Mrs. Haller from the “Stranger,” a knowledge of these plays and many others is most essential; besides, there are very few, if any, theatres in the United States which do not, in the course of a year, play one of the following pieces.

The following plays should, without no exception, be read. Nearly all of Shakspeare’s particularly:


And here’s a funny prerequisite to the modern reader: the would-be actress or actor must possess her or his own costumes! Here is an excerpt from the 1836 version of Rede’s book regarding costuming.

The number of actors that of late years have been in the habit of furnishing their own wardrobe has given the managers a hint which they have pretty generally taken. Every man likes to appear to ad­vantage, and many therefore find their own dresses, if they do not approve of the old suits in the stock ; but as our best actors have generally been the poorest men, it is necessary for me to state the things it is absolutely expected that an actor is to find himself in.

Never build while you can buy, is a rule with regard to tenements–never make dresses while you can purchase them, is a dramatic maxim. Theatrical things made at home always cost treble what they could be purchased for [on the street].

Rede includes extensive costume and property lists for various stock characters. These are page images from the 1836 edition. Enjoy!