How the Fashionable Lady and Gentleman Dressed in June 1787

It’s been quite fun and extremely frustrating diving into AI video generation tools over the last few weeks. To be sure, I’ve had more success with AI-generated video than with AI-generated graphics (see the Magic Tea Shop short stories The Teashop At The Corner Of Worlds and The Teashop on the Longest Night). I’m slowly learning. Here are my two fashion recreation pieces for June! They are from Magasin des Modes Nouvelles in 1787, which I found in the Gallica collections and translated.

The gown is made of striped taffeta, with narrow stripes of green, white, and violet. It is lined with the same fabric. The sleeves, made in the “sabot” style, are trimmed with cutwork cuffs of fine cambric linen.

Beneath the gown is a petticoat of rose-colored taffeta shot with white, together with a bodice of the same fabric. The bodice is laced with broad green silk cords threaded through long, polished steel buckles attached at the sides. Around her neck she wears a large plain fichu, crossed in front and fastened behind at the waist.

She wears an apple-green felt hat, painted dark pink underneath. Beneath the hat is a white gauze “cornette d’Amour.”

Her hair is dressed in many small curls, with two large curls falling on either side of her bosom, while the hair behind hangs loose in the style known as “à la Conseillère.”

On her hands are white kid gloves.

On her feet are pink taffeta shoes trimmed with green ribbon.

The coat worn by the young gentleman depicted in Plate I is made of dark green-black cloth. It is lined with silk of the same color, edged with pink piping, and adorned with large gilt buttons engraved with the capital letters of the alphabet.

Beneath this coat are breeches of canary-yellow gabardine, with seams stitched in sky blue. They are fastened below the knee with the breeches’ garter, which is somewhat long and ends in a tassel of blue silk.

A moiré waistcoat with broad yellow and pink stripes, its pockets cut very high.

Stockings with broad blue and pink stripes.

His shoes are fitted with buckles of a very broad oval shape.

The young gentleman’s hair is dressed in five curls, three below and two above, arranged in a broad square Greek pattern. His hair is tied behind in a queue.

His shirt is trimmed with cuffs and a cambric jabot. The jabot is pleated from top to bottom, as are the cuffs.

In one pocket, he carries a watch suspended from a simple black English leather cord, from which a seal key hangs. In the other, he carries either a portrait or a regulator, also known as a compass-watch, from which a gold chain adorned with gold charms hangs.

Here is a mockup I created for the project. You can see the alphabet buttons on this version and a more accurate hat. I really struggled with the hat during the AI generation. I ultimately had to go with what the AI video rendered. But I think the hat might have looked more like this one at LACMA. While researching breeches, I found these, which are almost an exact match minus the blue tassels.

Look Book! — May 1823

Dearest Readers,

Are you wearing your hair in an Apollo’s knot? If not, you simply must! For it’s all the rage in Paris. And what of your gown for carriage morning airings? Perhaps a lovely cashmere shawl would complement it nicely.

May is upon us, and we must endeavor to remain fashionable. Fortunately, La Belle Assemblée for May 1823 is here to guide us through all the latest old trends.

Ball Dress

Over a gossamer satin slip is worn a dress of Urling’s patent lace, beautifully finished at the border with large puffings of net, confined in bias wavings by straps of white satin; above this light and novel trimming, which forms a combination of richness and simplicity, is a full rouleau of white satin entwined with beading; and next the hem is a row of lace, with points à la Vandyck next the shoe.

The corsage is of white satin, and is made in the Anglo-Greek style; the antique robings on each side of the stomacher finished by net puffings, to correspond with the border of the petticoat: the bust finished by a falling tucker of Vandyke lace.

The sleeves short, but not quite so full as they were worn last month; they are ornamented to answer the other parts of the dress.

The headdress is a superb plume of white ostrich feathers; and the hair is arranged in the newest Parisian fashion: an Apollo’s knot is placed as an ornament over the right ear; the rest of the hair is parted in front, à la Madonna, except that the plainness of that mode is relieved by a full cluster of curls on each temple.

The ear-rings are of fine pearls, and the necklace formed of several rows of the same valuable materials twisted. Below the necklace is a gold chain, of an entire new pattern, with long links.

The shoes are of white satin, and the gloves white kid.

Morning Dress

A dress made partially low, of figured gros de Naples of a lavender color; next the hem at the border a full corkscrew rouleau of satin, of the same color as the dress; above which is a row of separate ornaments of rolled satin, in the Indostan style, each headed by an Indian lotos.

The drapery that crosses over the breast is beautifully diversified by white satin; and an elegant fichu à la Henriette is worn underneath, surmounted by a double frill of Vandyke lace.

Negligée cornette of fine Mechlin lace, ornamented with full-blown roses, and ear-rings and necklace of red cornelian; gold chain with long links, and eyeglass. Lavender kid shoes and Limerick gloves.

This dress is often worn in carriage morning airings, with the addition of a white Cachemire shawl with a beautiful variegated border, as represented in the Engraving.

We particularly call the attention of our fair subscribers to the elegant mancherons on the sleeves of this dress; they are formed of leaves of the lotos, and have a most unique and charming effect.

And a gentle reminder: I write not for “those who are such slaves to fashion, so as implicitly to follow every monstrosity…” but for those fair readers “whose minds are endowed with native elegance and taste.”